Viceregal Court of Naples
Why should I rehearse the countless roof tops and the ever-changing view? Each has a charm of its own; every chamber window has its own view of the sea. There is one hall that quite outshines them all; one hall that straight across the sea presents to thee, the view of Parthenope. Therein are marbles chosen from the heart of the quarries in Greece, and the other marbles from Egypt, or from Phrygia: green marbles from Laconia and yellow from Numidia. Here are the Carystian pillars that delight to face seaward. These all front and greet the towers of Naples. A blessing on the fancy that prefers the Greek, that makes a Grecian land your home!
The View of Naples by Roman Poet Slavius
"The bay of Naples, this also shows the presence which looms over our city and our minds. Vesuvius. Many a traveller such as you dear friend are first greeted to Naples by that view. A view which has captivated artists everywhere. Even the ancients could not fail to be moved by that sight. But come, our concern is not with mountains is it."
Ships turn solidly into the harbour. On top of a hill overlooking it the Viceregal residence dominates the view one has of the Neapolitan harbour. As you enter you notice to the right the imposing Castel Nuovo, from which much of the government of this small Kingdom is controlled.
It is intriguing to note, particularly for an Italian town the lack of visible churches or piety. This thought cannot dwell in your mind for too long as your ship docks and you are led by the charming but somewhat too enthusiastic Secretary of the Viceroy. He leads you through side streets and piazzas, past brothels and moneylenders, from the calls of hookers, to the remonstrations of monks. Eventually you reach Piazza with a large Duomo at one end, surrounded by columns. Giovanni, your guide grins widely.
"San Francesco di Paolo." He gestures to the Duomo, still grinning he charges onto a small street stand selling sweetmeats and buys enough for both of you. "We must wait here for his Grace the Viceroy's carriage. Then you will be carried to the Castel Nuovo and alotted a residence. From there it is up and up my friend to the Palace of the Viceroy. Apparently the Metripolitan also wishes to meet you but that is no more than a rumour at the moment."
In these few moments apart from the bustle of port-side Naples one can but notice the austere men of the cloth wandering under the shade of the columns. From time to time one sees flashes of red or of purple cassocks as, what you are assured is the Bishop of Reggio di Calabria leaves the Palatial building next to the Duomo.
After a period of reflection - as much as one can reflect in a city so permanently noisy as Naples - the carriage arrives. Giovanni leads you into it and slams the door shut. He shouts to the driver "Castel Nuovo," with a slight jolt you are moving at speed through the streets. "We of course use this building for the government's running, although in times of war it becomes the home of almost every soldier in Naples. It's an old Angevin fortress but the Viceroy had it rebuilt around ten years ago, with a large commemorative arch dedicated to himself. You will see yourself. He is not arrogant of course, just Neapolitan." Giovanni erupts into a somewhat wheezing laughter at his own, evidently excellent joke.
After a period of time in which Giovanni regales you with tales of the various brothels the city has to offer you pull up outside the Castel Nuovo. The triumphal arch towers over you. The building, though nowhere near as large as some in your homeland remains imposing. The sculpture on the arch leads all the way, reaching to the sky.
However you do not have long to admire it. Once more Giovanni strides purposefully off and through a side door above which, on the inside stands a stunningly painted crucifix. You are led to what appears to have been originally meant as a church. At what would be the altar a frowning man dressed in black looks up as you enter.
"Secretary," he inclines his head slightly to Giovanni. "And you signore, how can I help ?" To speak with such a monotone voice evidently took years of practise. Eventually after a long period of time Giovanni persuades him to provide you with a room in the city as part of the Viceregal Court. As you leave this church you realise that this shall not be the last time your purse shall be emptied to receive a service in this city.
"Right," Giovanni announces, bribery obviously being so ordinary no apology was required. "To the Viceroy." You both once more enter the carriage and begin the more speedy journey up the lush mountains towards the Palace. As you approach the gates you steal a quick look down the path towards Naples itself.
Why should I rehearse the countless roof tops and the ever-changing view? Each has a charm of its own; every chamber window has its own view of the sea. There is one hall that quite outshines them all; one hall that straight across the sea presents to thee, the view of Parthenope. Therein are marbles chosen from the heart of the quarries in Greece, and the other marbles from Egypt, or from Phrygia: green marbles from Laconia and yellow from Numidia. Here are the Carystian pillars that delight to face seaward. These all front and greet the towers of Naples. A blessing on the fancy that prefers the Greek, that makes a Grecian land your home!
The View of Naples by Roman Poet Slavius
"The bay of Naples, this also shows the presence which looms over our city and our minds. Vesuvius. Many a traveller such as you dear friend are first greeted to Naples by that view. A view which has captivated artists everywhere. Even the ancients could not fail to be moved by that sight. But come, our concern is not with mountains is it."
Ships turn solidly into the harbour. On top of a hill overlooking it the Viceregal residence dominates the view one has of the Neapolitan harbour. As you enter you notice to the right the imposing Castel Nuovo, from which much of the government of this small Kingdom is controlled.
It is intriguing to note, particularly for an Italian town the lack of visible churches or piety. This thought cannot dwell in your mind for too long as your ship docks and you are led by the charming but somewhat too enthusiastic Secretary of the Viceroy. He leads you through side streets and piazzas, past brothels and moneylenders, from the calls of hookers, to the remonstrations of monks. Eventually you reach Piazza with a large Duomo at one end, surrounded by columns. Giovanni, your guide grins widely.
"San Francesco di Paolo." He gestures to the Duomo, still grinning he charges onto a small street stand selling sweetmeats and buys enough for both of you. "We must wait here for his Grace the Viceroy's carriage. Then you will be carried to the Castel Nuovo and alotted a residence. From there it is up and up my friend to the Palace of the Viceroy. Apparently the Metripolitan also wishes to meet you but that is no more than a rumour at the moment."
In these few moments apart from the bustle of port-side Naples one can but notice the austere men of the cloth wandering under the shade of the columns. From time to time one sees flashes of red or of purple cassocks as, what you are assured is the Bishop of Reggio di Calabria leaves the Palatial building next to the Duomo.
After a period of reflection - as much as one can reflect in a city so permanently noisy as Naples - the carriage arrives. Giovanni leads you into it and slams the door shut. He shouts to the driver "Castel Nuovo," with a slight jolt you are moving at speed through the streets. "We of course use this building for the government's running, although in times of war it becomes the home of almost every soldier in Naples. It's an old Angevin fortress but the Viceroy had it rebuilt around ten years ago, with a large commemorative arch dedicated to himself. You will see yourself. He is not arrogant of course, just Neapolitan." Giovanni erupts into a somewhat wheezing laughter at his own, evidently excellent joke.
After a period of time in which Giovanni regales you with tales of the various brothels the city has to offer you pull up outside the Castel Nuovo. The triumphal arch towers over you. The building, though nowhere near as large as some in your homeland remains imposing. The sculpture on the arch leads all the way, reaching to the sky.
However you do not have long to admire it. Once more Giovanni strides purposefully off and through a side door above which, on the inside stands a stunningly painted crucifix. You are led to what appears to have been originally meant as a church. At what would be the altar a frowning man dressed in black looks up as you enter.
"Secretary," he inclines his head slightly to Giovanni. "And you signore, how can I help ?" To speak with such a monotone voice evidently took years of practise. Eventually after a long period of time Giovanni persuades him to provide you with a room in the city as part of the Viceregal Court. As you leave this church you realise that this shall not be the last time your purse shall be emptied to receive a service in this city.
"Right," Giovanni announces, bribery obviously being so ordinary no apology was required. "To the Viceroy." You both once more enter the carriage and begin the more speedy journey up the lush mountains towards the Palace. As you approach the gates you steal a quick look down the path towards Naples itself.
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