The rail journey from Asmara to Axum is not to be missed. The trains are among the most comfortable, reliable and well maintained in the Empire, and the journey provides ample time to admire the stunning scenery of Ethiopia's dramatic heartland. You'll be passing through the heart of the Old Empire's cattle country. Exotic wildlife and traditional herdsmen share the scene with small modern towns dotting the tracks.
We should pause here and note a circumstance that some western travelers might find puzzling. In parts of Ethiopia, it is not uncommon to see white men performing menial work under black supervision. Generally these European immigrants and their descendants are treated no worse than black peasants. This phenomena is most common in rural areas in the highlands. As the Empire industrialized and peasants migrated to emerging industrial centers, enterprising landowners aggressively recruited cheap labor from Europe to fill the void. Small pockets of Russian, English, Germans and other European cultures can be found scattered throughout the Empire.
Whatever offense a traveler may or may not take at this state of affairs should not be enough to ruin the majesty of Axum. One of the great tourist destinations not only of Africa but indeed of the entire civilized world, Axum is the hub for spiritual and artistic life in the Empire, and one of the most historic cities on earth.
There is some disagreement among historians and archeologists over just how old the city of Axum is. Some claim the settlement was founded as early as 2000 bc. Certainly the region has seen a series of empires rise and fall, dating back to the time of the Pharoahs. In the 1st century AD a powerful empire based in Axum was the first to convert to Christianity, and in the early days of Islam followers of Mohammed took refuge there.
Axum's role in Ethiopian history is closely tied to issues of religion. According to the local Coptic Christian tradition, the ancient Emperor Menelik I, the son of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, secretly brought the Ark of the Covenant to Ethiopia. The faithful believe it now resides in the Chapel of the Tablet in the historic Church of Our Lady of Zion. This church is a hugely important religious site. Imperial coronations are traditionally held here, and there are massive pilgrimages in January and November. Though these pilgrimages are spectacular to see, travel and accommodation can be extremely difficult to obtain during pilgrimage season.
Travelers who brave the crowds, or avoid pilgrimage season, are rewarded with spectacular examples of African artwork, modern and ancient, endowed by pious Ethiopian elites over the centuries.
The ancient history of Axum has left a legacy of magnificent ruins and monuments. The signature feature of ancient Axum are its many Stelae. These are pillars and obelisks engraved with the achievements of the kings who erected them, often marking the location of their tombs. The two most well known are King Ezana's Stele and the Obelisk of Axum. These two are among the last stelae erected, as the practice fell out of favor as Christianity spread. They are over 24 meters tall and dominate the cities north Stelae Garden.
Other popular local sights are the Queen of Sheba's Bath (actually a reservoir for the ancient city), the ruins of the Ta'aka Muryam and Dugur palaces, and the enigmatic Lioness of Gobedira rock carving.
As Ethiopia has modernized, scholars from within and without the Empire have been engaged in modern, scientific study of the Empire's past. Nowhere is this more evident than in Axum, the cradle of Africology. Using methodology pioneered in Egypt by French explorers, Africologists have made huge advances in understanding the civilizations of the ancient Nile, and their impact on world civilization as a whole.
There is no greater place to explore and appreciate the glory of ancient Africa than the Imperial Museum of History.
A cutting-edge facility endowed by Menelik II, the Museum is dedicated to preserving, studying and exhibiting the Empire's ancient past. Ironically, it's most spectacular and famous exhibit is a discovery Imperial Africologists made beyond the Empire's borders. In 1922 an expedition by Professor Kassa Mercha discovered the intact tomb of Egypt's Pharaoh Tutankhamun. The treasures within were carefully cataloged and removed to Axum, where they could be studied without the threat of theft by tomb raiders.
Axum's treasures, both ancient and modern, are too vast to be adequately described in this brief guidebook. Interested travelers should seek out a specialized guide, such as
The Foreigner's Guide to Axum, available from the publishers of this book. Reputable tour guides can be found through the Royal Axumite Tourist Bureau, conveniently located near Menelik Central Station.